In contrast to Laguna Encantada, the hike to Laguna Esmeralda is the most popular from Ushuaia outside of the Tierra del Fuego National Park. Transfers to the trail head are scheduled to leave from the main bus terminal near the Tourist Information Centre at 9am, 10am and 11am (returning at 4pm), but need a minimum […]
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I arrived in Ushuaia to discover that my fellow salsa-dancing aficionado from Melbourne, Autumn, also happened to be in town. She invited me along on a hike that her and her travelling companions were planning for the next day, and I was more than keen to join despite a desperate lack of sleep. She was
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Frederik Elsner! As part of my ongoing fascination/obsession with Greenland (I spent 5 weeks there last year, will spend another 4 weeks this year, and already have plans for 2019), I started listening to music by Greenlandic bands and very quickly came across Nanook. Nanook The band was formed by brothers Christian and Frederik Elsner
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Another of the key day-hikes from El Chaltén is to the Loma del Pliegue Tumbado. This seems to be everyone’s last option (the Senda Laguna Torre and Laguna de los Tres are far more popular), but the park rangers tell me that it is actually one of the most spectacular hikes … IF you have
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Another of the short trails that I didn’t hike on my first visit to El Chaltén in 2015, was to the Chorillo del Salto. Given that the end-point is a waterfall and lofty views are not really part of the agenda, I waited for a day where the tops of the mountains were once again
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The reason I ended up in Patagonia this year was because I was helping my friend, Mathilde (who I met on the Unplugged Wilderness Trek in East Greenland), plan her trip in the area. I didn’t really have any concrete plans for Feb-Mar and had no intention of returning to Patagonia so soon. But when
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Although I was trying to not overdo it, I did have several days in El Chaltén before starting the Southern Patagonian Icefield Expedition with Serac Expeditions and Swoop Patagonia. So, in addition to my “active rest” afternoon at the Mirador de los Cóndores and the Mirador de las Águilas, I decided to join fellow-Aussie, Brock, on the
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The Mirador de los Cóndores and the Mirador de las Águilas (the Condor and Eagle viewpoints) are two of the three relatively short hikes around El Chaltén in Argentina (the 3rd one is out to the Chorillo del Salto). Most travelers to the region only stay a couple of days and so tend to do
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If you’ve done a few long-distance treks and are looking for a new challenge, the Southern Patagonian Icefield Expedition with Serac Expeditions will certainly deliver! Only about 100 people a year take on this remote trek, but it is an incredible experience in one of the most beautiful places on Earth. Was it difficult? It’s the
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Despite low cloud hiding the tops of the mountains, dawn over the Bahía de los Témpanos was a celebration of this beautiful area. Unfortunately, we couldn’t linger to watch it fully unfold, as we had to be at our pick-up point by 2:30pm, and we still had a 15km trail in front of us. So
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