On the final day on board Sarfaq Ittuk, I awoke to the ship pulling into Aasiaat (population = 3164). Greenland’s 5th largest town is located on an archipelago of low islands and is the only place I’ve been in Greenland that doesn’t have a mountain standing over it! Given I would be returning to Aasiaat […]
Sarfaq Ittuk – Day 5 – Sisimiut – Ilulissat Read More »
On the day I desperately hoped would be clear, I was greeted once more with grey skies, low clouds and drizzle. This was definitely not what I wanted as we approached Maniitsoq and what is supposed to be an incredible hiking area just beyond it. Even our welcoming committee was not quite enough to lift
Sarfaq Ittuk – Day 4 – Maniitsoq to Sisimiut Read More »
When I went to bed, we were sailing just north of Qeqertarsuatsiaat. When I woke up – We were arriving in Nuuk. On the northbound journey, the Sarfaq Ittuk spends 14 hours in the capital city of Greenland. This is the longest stop it has anywhere during its week-long circuit – I imagine so that
Sarfaq Ittuk – Day 3 – Nuuk Read More »
I woke up to grey skies, low clouds, and a not insignificant ocean swell. Fortunately, it takes quite a lot to make me seasick! Arsuk with Sarfaq Ittuk Our first port for the day was the small settlement of Arsuk – population 77 (1 Jul 2019). Our scheduled docking time here was 15 minutes, and
Sarfaq Ittuk – Day 2 – Sailing along the south-west coast Read More »
The Sarfaq Ittuk passenger ferry operates between April and January each year on a weekly schedule that takes it along the west coast of Greenland. I love ferry journeys. And I’d been looking forward to making my way from Qaqortoq in the South to Ilulissat in the North by sea ever since I found out
Sarfaq Ittuk – Day 1 – Welcome Aboard in Qaqortoq! Read More »
When planning my solo multi-day hike in Hornstrandir, I found there was lots of conflicting information on the web and I was quite nervous about what to expect. Here are a few logistics and some thoughts based on the trails I took. Transportation The easiest way to book your transfers to and from Hornstrandir
Trekking Iceland – Hornstrandir Summary Read More »
Yesterday while hiking from Hlöðuvík to Hesteyri, I managed to convince myself to change my plan for the 3rd time and just stay in Hesteyri and do day hikes for my last 3 days in Hornstrandir. This was to take the weight off my lateral femoral cutaneous nerve to see whether that would help with the
Trekking Iceland – Around Hesteyri – Hornstrandir Read More »
I woke up to better-looking weather today for my hike from Hlöðuvík to Hesteyri. Unfortunately, however, still no feeling in the surface layer of my left outer thigh 🙁 It turns out I have developed Meralgia Paresthetica (thank you Dr Google). Given that I’m not overweight nor wearing tight clothing, I suspect this was caused by the
Trekking Iceland – Hlöðuvík to Hesteyri – Hornstrandir Read More »
I’ve said it before … it’s not a bad thing to need to get up and attend to a call of nature in the middle of the night during an Arctic summer. These are the views that greeted me at 1 am as I took a 1.5-hour stroll along the beach. And I wasn’t the
Trekking Iceland – Hornvík to Hlöðuvík – Hornstrandir Read More »
The wind kept up for most of the night but had died down significantly by morning. The drizzle had also mostly stopped so I headed out to explore more of the area around the lighthouse at Hornbjargsviti. I don’t know if it was because I had it all to myself, but this is one of
Trekking Iceland – Hornbjargsviti to Hornvík – Hornstrandir Read More »