Yesterday while hiking from Hlöðuvík to Hesteyri, I managed to convince myself to change my plan for the 3rd time and just stay in Hesteyri and do day hikes for my last 3 days in Hornstrandir. This was to take the weight off my lateral femoral cutaneous nerve to see whether that would help with the numbness I was feeling in my outer left thigh (at this point, I hadn’t been able to consult Dr. Google to determine that this was a condition known as Meralgia Paresthetica and that it will likely take months to rectify).
And even though it was the sensible and obvious thing to do, particularly as I still have 4 months of trekking ahead of me, it took the majority of the hike to convince my ego to let it go! I’m a huge fan of Ryan Holiday, and clearly I need to re-read his book “Ego is the Enemy” for the third time! It’s a great book – read it if you haven’t already.
It turned out that hanging out in Hesteyri was a great idea for another reason as well … the weather was crap!
So what did I get up to?
Listening to Music
I’m very careful with battery management and so still had heaps of charge on my phone. I spent many hours curled up under my sleeping quilt listening to my favourite band in all the world – Nanook from Greenland (of course 🙂 )
![Listenting to music in my tent](http://lisagermany.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/listening-music-tent.jpg)
Reading Books
I used to use my travels to catch up on reading books. I would churn through them like there was no tomorrow, and it was how I spent every spare second on vacation.
Then I started this blog…
Given I didn’t have my computer with me, it was a great opportunity to break out the Kindle (one of my favourite inventions ever) and read “The Greenland Trilogy“, three action-packed fiction books set in Greenland by author Christoffer Peterson.
![Reading my kindle in my tent](http://lisagermany.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/reading-kindle-tent.jpg)
I’d been wanting to read these for a while, and certainly before I headed back to Greenland. So perfect timing, as I arrive in Kulusuk (East Greenland) next Monday! They are a fun read and I recommend them for a bit of light entertainment set in a really cool place 🙂
Eating
One of the things that Hesteyri is famous for is the Cafe at the old Doctor’s House that operates during the Summer months.
![The old doctors house in Hesteryi is the heart of the village - Hornstrandir - Iceland](http://lisagermany.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/The-old-doctors-house-in-Hesteryi-is-the-heart-of-the-village-Hornstrandir-Iceland-1024x683.jpg)
After eating trekking food for 5 days, I was super-keen to have a proper home-cooked meal, and so headed there for dinner on my first night. Honey Rye Bread, Icelandic Lamb Soup, and Rhubarb Crumble … soooooo good! In fact, I ended up having 2 enormous bowls of the soup, and I most definitely would have had two portions of dessert and eaten a whole loaf of the bread, if there had been the opportunity!
![The chimney of the old whaling station at Sekkeyri is visible from near Hesteyri - Hornstrandir - Iceland](http://lisagermany.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/Amazing-food-at-the-Old-Doctors-House-at-Hesteyri-Hornstrandir-Iceland-767x1024.jpg)
The next day, after some strenuous reading in my tent, I wandered over during a break in the rain to sample the Cafe’s famous Icelandic pancakes. Light and fluffy and full of sugar … just what you need on a grey, wet day!
![Icelandic pancakes t](http://lisagermany.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/pancakes-old-doctor-house-cafe-hesteyri.jpg)
And I might have also returned for more of the tart-but-oh-so-sweet Rhubarb Crumble (this time with custard) just before catching the boat back to Ísafjörður… 😉
![Rhubarb Crumble and journaling at the Old Doctor's House cafe - Hesteyri](http://lisagermany.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/rhubarb-crumble-old-doctor-house-cafe-hesteyri.jpg)
Thank you Michael Wolf for the awesome food!
Chatting
Those who have met me during the past 15 years have a hard time believing that I used to be very shy. I can talk to anyone and (like the donkey in Shrek) it’s often getting me to shut up that’s a problem.
So I spent a lot of time at the Cafe chatting with Matt Taylor – a fellow Aussie who was helping out there for 6 weeks on a break from his studies in Neuroscience (as you do), and Hrólfur Vagnsson who was managing the place for the summer. Thanks for the great conversation guys! It’s a pity we didn’t have more time!
Exploring the village of Hesteyri
After 2 days of rain, the weather improved for my last day in Hesteyri and I finally ventured beyond my tent and the cafe 😀
I went for a bit of a wander around the town, which has been abandoned since 1952 but is now used by the original families for summer vacations.
![Some of the buildings of Hesteyri - Hornstrandir - Iceland](http://lisagermany.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/Some-of-the-buildings-of-Hesteyri-Hornstrandir-Iceland-767x1024.jpg)
It would have been great to learn more about the history of this isolated place, and I did half think about sneaking along on one of the guided tours but resisted the temptation.
Hike to the old Whaling Station at Sekkeyri
I saw the remains of the chimney as I hiked down into Hesteyri from Hlöðuvík the other day, and it is also visible from Hesteyri itself.
![The chimney of the old whaling station at Sekkeyri is visible from near Hesteyri - Hornstrandir - Iceland](http://lisagermany.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/The-chimney-of-the-old-whaling-station-at-Sekkeyri-is-visible-from-near-Hesteyri-Hornstrandir-Iceland-1024x683.jpg)
Turns out it is a very flat, ~3km hike out to the old whaling station at Sekkeyri along the edge of the inlet. I even managed to see seals along the way! Almost every rock had one flopped upon it.
![Seals resting on the rocks near the trail to the old whaling station at Sekkeyri near Hesteyri - Hornstrandir - Iceland](http://lisagermany.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/Seals-resting-on-the-rocks-near-the-trail-to-the-old-whaling-station-at-Sekkeyri-near-Hesteyri-Hornstrandir-Iceland-1024x683.jpg)
I spent quite a lot of time exploring and wandering around the ruins of the whaling station, but again, it would have been great to have a guided tour to know exactly what I was looking at. I had to turn to my imagination instead and make up my own stories 🙂
![The old whaling station at Sekkeyri near Hesteyri - Hornstrandir - Iceland](http://lisagermany.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/The-old-whaling-station-at-Sekkeyri-near-Hesteyri-Hornstrandir-Iceland-814x1024.jpg)
Really nice for the “Ye Olde” sailing boat to visit at the same time … more fuel for my imaginings of the whalers actually using the station back in the day.
![Sailing boat visiting the old whaling station at Sekkeyri near Hesteyri - Hornstrandir - Iceland](http://lisagermany.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/Sailing-boat-visiting-the-old-whaling-station-at-Sekkeyri-near-Hesteyri-Hornstrandir-Iceland-1024x683.jpg)
Read more about my solo trek in Hornstrandir
If this post has piqued your curiosity, read about the rest of my adventure in Hornstrandir:
- Prelude – leading up to departure
- Day 1 – from Veiðileysufjörður to Hornvík
- Day 2 – from Hornvík, around Hornbjarg to Hornbjargsviti
- Day 3 – from Hornbjargsviti to Hornvík
- Day 4 – from Hornvík to Hlöðuvík
- Day 5 – from Hlöðuvík to Hesteyri
- Day 6 – around Hesteyri
- Summary
Alternatively, check out my other posts about hiking and trekking in Iceland and around the world.